Situated on the most eastern point of Australia is a beach town that goes by the name of Byron Bay. Captain Cook set anchor nearby the Cape in 1770 and named it after one of his fellow sailors John Byron. Before Cook’s arrival it was known as ‘Arakwal’ by the local Bundjalung people, which means “meeting place”. Timber was the first industry to start in the region, hence the names of the areas Skinner’s Shoot, Possum Shoot and Cooper’s Shoot, derived from the timber cutters “shooting” logs down the hills to the ships. 1870 brought gold fever to the region with up to 20 gold mining leases opened up on Tallow Beach’s black sands. Byron Bay was a region of industrialisation, a dairy factory, abattoirs, fishing and whaling, even a hazardous sea port that appears to have claimed a couple of boats still rusting away in the sea. The first jetty was built in 1886, a railway in 1894 and the famous lighthouse that was built on the cape in 1901. Sand mining went strong between the world wars, so did meat works and the slaughtering of whales. All these industries running hard meant unbearable smells in the area, and a lot of harsh environmental impact. Most industries wound down in the 1960’s recession and good surf turned the region into a tourist attraction. Alongside Nimbin, it furthered into an alternative lifestyle culture, which brings domestic and international tourists from all around into the region. Driving into Byron gives you nice views of rolling hills, green grass and a sea of blue in the distance. The pleasant feeling of wide-open spaces comes to a halt very quickly when you arrive into town. That thought of escapement from the Bruce Highway makes you wish you were back on it, bumper to bumper traffic, people everywhere and the smells of used socks and body odour coming from vans. Horrible roads, unnecessary traffic jams and pedestrians just crossing the road when they get the opportunity are fair indicators of extremely poor infrastructure. Bumper stickers with full 'Greenie' support litter old vans running on leaded petrol, with the occasional cigarette butt flying out the window. Walking through town you notice large amount of drug abuse in a few characters getting around. Tune into a conversation from locals and you might hear about how people move out here to find happiness and end up worse than what they were. When we were running along beautiful high cliff sides that meet the ocean at Lennox Head, we saw lifeline signs telling you that there’s still hope, it makes you realise its not the happy place that you hear all about. So, lets get on with happier stuff! If you get away from the crowded main beach, you’ll find some stunning waters to throw yourself in. We had a wicked day at Lennox Head beach, the waves can get a bit monstrous but stay shallow enough the water is perfect for beginner surfers and average swimmers like ourselves. A bit north of the main Byron Bay is Belongil Beach, preferred by locals, it’s away from the bigger crowds and the water is rather inviting. We chilled there and watched the waves but were far too dressed to jump in. If you get tired of swimming there is an almost endless amounts of walking to do through the hinterland region. We bought a book called ‘Byron Trails’ with 50 walking tracks around the area, its kept us busy with adventures. Between walking and swimming there has been some amazing food around, the subtropical climate grows just about every fruit and vegetable under the sun. Most good cafes use local produce including the coffee. Some of our eating highlights have been the jackfruit burger at the Main Street Burger Bar and the General Dawg at the Byron Bay General Store. The raw treats from Combi and beetroot cake from Spar (yeah I know right!) also served our appetites well. The Byron town centre transforms at night, the traffic dies down and street musicians open up. It makes for a pleasant strolling atmosphere to hear such a diverse range of music being played around the town, from soft acoustics, electronic mixers to trumpets and electric guitars. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed Byron Bay, the beaches, the food and the walking tracks have treated us well. It’s a chilled place if you make it chilled, but so are many other places, it’s just how you choose to experience it. Them realities of Byron I introduced to you earlier on are not to put the place down, but to understand that it is well sugar coated on advertisements and social media. It’s a nice place, but the hype might let you down.
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The JourneyChoose Curiosity The Catalogue
November 2023
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