After spending the night in Mataranka, and swimming in the magical and intimate bitter springs pool we travelled about 420kms north along the Stuart Highway, to the capital of the Northern Territory, Darwin. According to the Bureau of Meteorology (BoM) January 2019 in the Northern Territory was “very hot and very dry” with rainfall generally well below average. To us, however, as we meandered along the highway at 80kph, we did not recognise the landscape was experiencing lower than average rainfall. Leaving Mataranka, the landscape seemed to significantly change, the red dirt now blanketed by thick, long grass and lush foliage indicated to us an abundance of rain. We passed inundated sections of land by the side of the highway and were treated to the sight of birds enjoying the opportunity to bath and hydrate. I saw black cockatoos for the first time and was mesmerised. It really was incredibly hot travelling up through the centre of Australia and we were excited to feel the humid air against our skin and not the ravage intensity of the sun. Our enthusiasm did not last unfortunately as we reversed into our grassed and slushy caravan site at the Discovery Parks Carvan Park near the airport. It would go on to rain for our entire stay, making the overall experience feel bleak and less than enjoyable. I’ll be shockingly brutal here by saying I loathed Darwin during this visit and felt elated to U-turn and head south back down the Stuart highway. The Commonwealth Railways were established in 1917 to administer the North Australia Railway between Birdum (south of Larrimah) to Darwin, which was funded by the Government of South Australia and constructed by Singhalese, Indian and Chinese labourers. The original line which opened in 1887 terminated at Pine Creek where this image was taken and extended to Birdum in 1929. Iron ore mining at Frances Creek (about 230 kilometres south of Darwin) saw the line come into prominence during the 1960s and 1970s, however after the mine closed the line’s relevance diminished and line closed two years after in 1976.
Side note: The Frances Creek Iron Ore mine was reopened in 2007 with mining continuing until 2014. In 2021 with the mine in care and maintenance and approvals pending, Linecrest Pty Ltd exported a shipment of iron ore from stockpiles using automated ore sorting technology. In 2001, a segment by the 7:30 report on the ABC reported on the beginning of construction works to complete the rail line between Alice Springs and Darwin. The Honourable John Howard the Prime Minister of the day was in attendance to “turn the sod” however unexpected July rains damped the affair. The line was completed in 2004 and serves the passenger train, The Ghan, named after Afghan camel drivers who assisted British colonisers during the 19th century to traverse the country’s interior and courier materials for the construction of the Overland Telegraph Line. The 35 kilometre rail trail stretches from South Geelong to Queenscliff. Shovel and I rode the rail trail from Coppards Road to Curlewis and returned by the same route. Riding about 17 kilometres round trip. I have to be honest, Bendigo didn't live up to the hype. My expectations were high, given that I'd heard when previously living in Geelong the town had completed extensive restoration works to preserve historical buildings, injecting a new vibrant atmosphere into the area. Admittedly I didn't feel this new energy, probably because I had a sore knee, but I wasn't sold on the town's preservation of history. Having said that, what I did enjoy was the talking tram and felt this was an interesting feature and quirky tourism done well, thanks to a dedicated team of volunteers maintaining, driving and conducting the trams. In 1972 the original passenger tram system was closed due to dwindling usage. News of the closure was met with wide criticism and people took to the streets, approximately 20,000 to say farewell. This overwhelming response prompted local government to implement a 'tourist service' that would see the restoration and preservation of many trams (there are currently 45 trams in the fleet) from all around and the Heritage Registered Bendigo Tramways Depot is now the oldest operating tram depot in Australia. What was once a British settler sheep station first established in 1837 dramatically changed to a bustling township in 1851 with the discovery of alluvial gold. In less than a year the population had swelled to approximately 40,000, of mostly prospectors looking to stake a claim and strike it rich. Underground quartz reef gold was then discovered and during the 19th century the Bendigo gold mine was one of the highest producing in Australia. It is said the name of the near by creek derived its name after a local English bare-knuckled prize-fighter, nicknamed 'Bendigo.' In 1863 Sandhurst became the official name of the town, but was always unofficially Bendigo until 1891 when it was officially changed.
Sydney, around the world it’s the first thing that comes to mind after Kangaroo when you ask anyone about Australia. Indigenous Australians inhabited this part of the land for over 30 thousand years. It’s the country’s largest capital city with its most recently recorded population coming in at approximately 5 million people. It’s also Australia’s oldest city, ever since the first fleet landing in 1788, it has evolved from a colonial outpost to becoming a city in 1842. Events like the gold rush and world war two brought many migrants in, to seek opportunities they couldn’t find in their home countries, creating a lot of growth in Sydney. Although one of the most expensive cities in the world, it is the 10th most liveable city in the world, making it still statistically appealing for migration. Most notable landmarks are the architectural wonders of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. Well-maintained historical buildings from the colonial era still keep themselves present after surviving horrid high-rise development proposals on the rocks, courtesy of activist Jack Mundey. With mild subtropical weather it makes it an inviting all year round destination for local and international tourists. Lane Cove National ParkWe arrived into Lane Cove Caravan Park at North Ryde, Florence was unhitched and set up in a National Park and we were only 10 kilometres from the city of Sydney. Surrounded by a variety of large local gum trees and the lights of the city in the background, the location was beyond believable.
Thursday, we went into Mosman to do a Pilates session, public transport was a long trip over so we opted to take the car. We navigated our way through 15 kilometres of highways, tunnels and some off-peak (thankfully) traffic. The drive wasn’t too bad and we got there with some time on our hands, so we went for a walk to get a feel of the place. Mosman is rather posh, old buildings are filled with boutique shops, fancy cafes and chemists that didn’t have vitamin c’s. Streets were filled with cars like M series BMW’s, Porsches, Maserati’s and all the other fancy stuff from Europe. Locals are hard at work here, with image and an occupation to fund it. After pilates we took the train into the Quay and went for a look at the Sydney Museum of Contemporary Art. Only level 2 was opened that day but was filled with some inspiring modern art from across the country and around the world. Its art deco styled building used to facilitate the maritime services board but had been an art gallery since 1991. After getting in a dose of art we went for a walk around the Sydney Opera House, one of the 20th century’s most famous and distinctive buildings. Taking in the exterior of the opera house makes you appreciate Jørn Utzon’s unique form of Architecture; the building to this day still feels well ahead of its time. We were craving a burger, so we went on a Google adventure for food and it led us to a place called Bar Luca in the city. The place was packed so we thought we couldn’t go wrong eating here. We ordered burgers that go by the name of ‘Blame Canada’ it was loaded with poutine, maple bacon, lots of liquid cheese and a beef paddy, maybe vegetables. After making our way through the burger marathon, we ventured our way back home. On Friday, we kicked the day off exploring some of the track along the river that goes through Lane Cove. The views were endless with stunning waters, wildlife and trees. It was a great feeling to be living next door to all of this iconic nature for a few days. We took the train into the city and then boated our way along the Harbour arriving at Cockatoo Island. Arriving into the island you see an amazingly diverse range of buildings, industrial and residential. We went for a look around for half the day and got enriched with its history. We jumped back on the boat and it made its way back through the busy Harbour to Circular Quay. Dinner-time had come upon us so we boarded the train to a place called Newtown. This colourful inner city suburb welcomed us with a young open-minded vibe. Cool bars, cafes and restaurants nestled themselves in revived old buildings. Blank walls were filled with street art and alternative styles of fashion were worn casually in the Newtown neighbourhood. We come across an Indonesian Café called Solo, it looked inviting so we gave it a go. We sat on the top verandah looking over the street through the 19th century arched window. We went with a dish called the Lamb Gulal, it had things like okra and roti along side good old potatoes, it was definitely one of the best feeds we’ve had on the trip down south. After some brilliant food we explored more further back up street and come across a book store open late at night called ‘Better read than dead’. The entrance looked average and humble until it opens up to a massive 3 level catalogue of books, it kept us busy for a while. Alternative Newtown is a fun place to hang out, whether to just walk around, eat food or just take in the atmosphere it’s certainly worth a visit. On Saturday, we got onto a walking tour around Sydney. The tour was called ‘The Rocks Journey Walk’. It was an informative 3-hour walking history lesson, which took us around some of the first buildings and landmarks in the country. We learnt a lot about Sydney and Australia in that time and have it in more detail in the rocks journey walk blog. We walked around the rocks area to find some lunch; passing through a few narrow laneways of sandstone we dropped into the Glenmore hotel. The Glenmore is a gorgeous pub, and is one of the few buildings standing after the construction of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. This Aussie icon was built in 1921, and on the inside it takes you back to that era with art deco styled rooms with original furniture. The lunch hit the spot and so did the views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. We caught the train home and rested for a while, to preserve some energy for the big night out at the Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras. We ventured our way into Wyndham station to walk over to Oxford Street, where the fun and games kicked off. On our way we had a quick look through the Queen Victoria building, built in the 1890’s its Romanesque style architecture is rich with stained glass, mosaic floors and windy staircases. It also features a statue of the ever so happy Queen Victoria out the front. We made our way towards Oxford Street, along side 300 thousand other people to witness the 40th Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras. We were blown away with lights, glitter and loud music. After having a blast dancing the night away, we zig zagged through the streets of the city to make our way home. Sunday was a day of relaxation, we were pretty much dead to the world after days filled with walking, walking, dancing and walking. We put our feet up and enjoyed the sounds of nature in the Lane Cove National Park. We finished off the day with a drive into a trendy suburb called Glebe; the route took us over the Harbour Bridge and through the city, leading us out behind Wentworth Park. It’s an old but well looked after area, the houses were restored beautifully and the park nearby was well manicured. We went into this place called Soul Burger, a café where they make burgers taste like beef, chicken and pork….but they don’t have any of that in them. The food was nicely done and surprisingly cheap for vegan, certainly a hit with the university students. To finish off the day, we sat down at the well-manicured park and ate our cow, chicken, fish and swine friendly burgers. Our time in Sydney was certainly a good one; it’s easy to dismiss the city as overrated and hectic to get around. Our time here proved to us that it is anything but that, we drove in and out of Sydney pretty easily with a caravan, the traffic is horrid on peak times but easy enough to avoid. We loved the drive around the city on the Sunday, its surreal driving over the Harbour Bridge and going past all the famous icons of the city. If you don’t fancy driving, the trains will happily take you over the Harbour Bridge, a connecting ferry at Circular Quay boats you through the Harbour itself. The Mardi Gras is truly the most fun anyone can have, the streets filled with colour and dancing will bring a smile to anyone’s face. The city is rich with fascinating history; every street and building has a story to it. Sydney was certainly a highlight for us, if you give it the chance it will show you a great time.
On one of our days in Ipswich we thought we would get some city exposure in and take a drive into Brisbane, the ‘River City’. Queensland’s capital city was named after the Brisbane River it was built around, which was named after a Scotsman Sir Thomas Brisbane Governor of New South Wales 1821-1825. The area was a prime location for Sydney’s Colony of secondary offenders, which formed a penal settlement in 1824. Today ‘Bris-Vegas’ has a population of 2.4 million; remains of its early 1800’s architecture are still around. The city is reputable for it’s unique ‘Queenslander’ style architecture which is present in a lot of the earlier original suburbs closer to the CBD. Our drive into Brisbane was a bit of a culture shock, piled up peak hour traffic and navigating through unknown streets with an uncertain destination reminded us of what we’ve been missing out on for two years. We arrived happily at the car park and were excited to put our best shoes on and explore the urban delights. The start of the day we went on a quest to find a Reuben Sandwich, a few Google bum steers finally got us in the right direction, leading us to a walk from Fortitude Valley over to South Brisbane. The South Brisbane area has changed dramatically over 10 years; more eateries, supermarkets and boutique shops have filled up Grey Street. We found our eating destination, Pourboy, not far from the South Bank train station, this place cured our hunger with a pretty decent sandwich. With some fuel back in the tank we caught the train down the road to browse through the Gallery of Modern Art. The GOMA is the largest gallery of contemporary and modern art in Australia, it was filled with many displays of cinema, photographic and painted forms of arts. It was a nice surprise to see a display of Torres Strait Island Art, easily assumed to be similar to Aboriginal art, it is a completely different form of artwork and unique to the remote island life that is embraced there. Gumby visited Horn and Moa Islands and a Torres Strait Island Museum back in 2016. After getting our fix of art, we took the train back to Fortitude Valley for something completely different, Mini Golf. The Valley is reputable for being a suburb of hard partying through the night and rancid odors of hangover in the day. During the day there is an old Church that opens at mid-day, that offers a blessing of pizza, rounds of mini golf and a jukebox loaded with rock and roll, it goes by the name of Holey Moley. We dropped in for a round of nine and putted our way around holes themed with Pac-man, The Simpsons and even through the legs of a donkey with Donald Trump on its backside. We ended our day with a KX Pilates session in a trendy suburb called Newstead, which had a lot more nicer feel (and smell) than its neighboring Valley suburb. Although classy, it still had a good vibe with people out exercising, clean streets and well-manicured apartment buildings. Gumby introduced me to the reformer pilates, I had a ball and she was lit up with excitement doing her first session in two years. Although a huge day trying to keep up with the pace of the city, we had a lot of fun in Brisbane. We were enriched with food, art and a diversity of atmosphere. The Pilates session was the perfect way to top off the day, we walked into the relaxing city night after the class feeling beyond fulfilled from today’s excitement.
To access the only rail tunnel in North West Queensland we left Cherry near Ballara at the start of the Hightville Shortcut and ventured on foot towards the old township of Hightville and up to the tunnel. The weather was mild and slightly overcast making for perfect walking conditions.
After having lunch at the tunnel we walked back down the hill towards Ballara, past the old rail loading platform. This was where the 2" gauge rail line terminated and the 3.5" gauge rail towards Kuridala and Cloncurry began. The small one tipping ore into the larger one from the top of the platform. The stone wall is beautiful. It was amazing to see. At its peak Hightville incorporated a hotel, shops and even a school. Children in Ballara would have to attend school in Hightville and as such would hitch a ride on the ore wagons. This dangerous practice was axed however with the establishment of a school in Ballara in 1919. Although the rail line has since been dismembered, the tunnel and ruins of rail bridges remain, making for a really fascinating adventure.
We watched an episode on YouTube of the Leyland Brothers from back in the late 60’s when they journeyed to Mount Isa in search of the Maltese Cross. Since watching this episode we have been inspired to find the Maltese Cross fields, Wee MacGregor Mine and the Tunnel. The same grave site in our photos was featured in the Leyland Brothers episode. 2017 marks 150 years since Ernest Henry discovered rich deposits of copper and kicked off the Great Australia Mine, that put Cloncurry on the map. To celebrate Cloncurry’s mining success, the council has been hosting a series of special events and we were grateful to be a part of one - a ride on a Steam Train! Gumby and I surprised my (Shovel’s) mum for her birthday and brought my Parents out to Cloncurry to experience a bit of history. The train was manufactured in the 1950’s and was the last steam train ever built. The carriages were all different, their build dates ranged from as early as the early 1900’s up to the 1970’s. Every carriage was beautifully preserved, it was a moving history museum and the outback Queensland scenery outside filled the windows with endless bush colours. Fascinating experience and loads of fun. We also pulled up at the Chinaman Creek Dam lookout for some rock chucking and views, then stretched the legs at Burke and Wills memorial.
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The JourneyChoose Curiosity The Catalogue
November 2023
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